Pattern draft or chart.



No. 894,207. PATENTED JULY 28, 1908,

H. P. JACOBSON.

PATTERN DRAFT OR CHART.

APPLICATION FILED PEB. 24. 1.906.

Mmm/fm g HAMLET PETER lTAOOBSON, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

PATTERN DRAFT OR CHART.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 28, 1908.

Application filed February 24, 1906. Serial No. 302,783.

To all whom 'it may concern:

Be it known that I, HAMLET PETER JACOB- sON, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of NewYork, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Pattern Drafts or Oharts, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to an improvement in dress-makers7 and tailorscharts and has for its object the provision of an exceedingly simpleconstruction that may be readily understood and operated by the mostinexperienced person, and by whicha pattern of larger or smallerdimensions may be quickly marked off with the one chart.

IVith this main object in view, the invention comprises a chart uponwhich is arranged perforated lines having different sizes markedthereon, and also an inch scale to show by inches the amount the varioussizes should be increased, said lines being arranged upon the chart atthe points corresponding to the places where a person is measured whenbeing measured for a suit. The chart also contains various lines toindicate pockets, darts, etc., and also arrow lines bearing certaininscriptions to instruct the person in laying off a pattern and thusobviating the necessity of providing a set of rules or instructions suchas those accompanying patterns and charts now generally used, and whichis a very serious objection, especially when the charts are being usedby inexperienced persons.

The invention further possesses certain peculiar details of constructionand arrangement as will be fully set forth in the followingspecification and pointed out in the claim, reference being had to thedrawings in which:-

Figure l is a view of the front chart, and Figs. la, and lb, areenlarged detail views illustrating the size numerals, and fractionalinch scales provided on all of the lines.

In the drawings I have illustrated a chart of a 34 size and from whichpatterns of larger or smaller sizes are made` By reference to Fig. l,AA, designates the front chart provided with a curved front edge A, acurved neck ortion A', a shoulder portion A2, the arm-ho e A3, the sideedge A4, and the straight bottom A5. From the corners of the front, sideand bottom edges are perforated lines A6, and A7, which extend obliquelyfrom the corners and each line is provided with a scale A2, to designatethe sizes from 35 to 60, and below each set of size numerals is a scaleA9, in fractions of inches ranging from to 5gand which designate theamount in inches to which a larger or small pattern should be increasedor diminished when being marked 0H by the chart. A10, designates thewaist-line having a series of perforations extending from the front edgewhich are also numbered consecutively from 35 to 60 and provided with afractional inch scale similar to the lines A,

and A7.

A11, designates the breast line which is perforated and provided with ascale; A12, a

similar line extending diagonally from the corner of the front and neckportions; A13, a similar line extending from the corner of the neck andshoulder portions, f 11, a similar line extending from the shoulderadjacent the arm-hole and which runs substantially parallel thereto,and, A12, a similar line extending from the lower edge of the arm-hole.All of these lines are provided with numerals denoting the sizes andinch measurements similar to the lines A, and A7.

A1, and A17, are lines indicating the position of the pockets and A12, adart line.

A12, denotes arrow-lines which are arranged around the edge of the chartto indicate additional points at which the measurements should be madewhen a pattern of different size is being laid off, and these lines aremarked with the word Increase to guide and instruct the operator.

A20, is an arrow-line bearing the instruction HDrop breast-line 51,-inch for each size, and A21, is a similar line bearing the inscription,Drop waist-line 14- inch for each size, and upon the waist-line isprinted Increase front and side the same amount. Upon the seat line is'printed the instruction Increase seat line same as waist-line, and uponthe arrow-line extending to the point of the arm-hole and side edge isprinted Touch this point.

In view of the fact that the drawing is made on such a reduced scale, Ihave not attempted to show all of the dimensions on all of theperforated lines, and therefore, refer to Figs. la, and lb, which aredetails of several scales enlarged and which show the arrangement of thescales that is followed throughout all ythe lines.

In laying off a pattern the chart AA is laid upon the paper from whichthe pattern is to be cut and retained by suitable Weights. Now supposinga pattern, size 40, is to be made, the operator marks oif from the edgeof the chart adjacent the perforated linesand the arrow-lines the amountin inches corresponding to the scale arranged below the numeralsindicating the size. For instance in extending the measurement for apattern, size 40, a point or mark is made of an inch from the waist-lineat either side of the pattern which is the amount opposite the sizenumber 40. At the lower front and side edges, the lines would beextended 1- inches, this being the amount indicated by the scaleadjacent the size 40. At the breast-line, the front edge would beextended 1 inch, and these dimensions are also marked off at the variousother points indicated by the arrow. Care is taken to drop eachmeasurement at the waistand breast lines according to instructionsprinted on the charts. For instance in making a pattern for a size 40,the waist-line would be dropped l- .inches, and the breast-line inches.Af-

ter the points have been laid off, the chart is then moved over untilthe edge of the chart registers with the points, and a line drawn alongthe edge which will bisect each point and of course it is understoodthat in making a pattern for larger sizes, the lines are extended by theoperator to meet the points and as the distance is very short, this maybe done with absolute accuracy. In making a pattern from this chart fora smaller size than the chartl calls for, a pin or needle is projectedthrough corresponding points throughout the chart after which the chartis moved over so that its edge will bisect each perforation when a linemay be drawn to mark off the pattern. For example should it be desiredtomake a pattern size 32, the operator projects the pin or needlethrough the second perforation from the edge of the chart, and then bymoving the chart so that the edges will bisect the perforation orpoints, a line is f1 drawn and a pattern quickly laid out. It will thusbefseen, that this operation is exceedingly simple and requires but a.very short time to make and lay out a pattern, and further comment uponthe operation and advantages `of the chart is thought unnecessary, as itwill be well understood by those skilled in the art to which myinvention appertains.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secure by Letters Patent is A front chart for laying oif patternsprovided with breast, waist, and seatlines, pocket-lines and a dartline, the said breastand waistline being perforated for a portion oftheir length and provided with size numerals and fractional inch scales,perforated scale lines extending obliquely from the lower corners of thechart and having size numerals, and a fractional inchscale, a similarline extending from the corner produced by the front and neck edges, asimilar line extending from the corner produced by the neck and shoulderedges, and a similar line extending from the shoulder in substantiallyparallel direction to the arm-hole of the chart, arrow-lines bearinginstructions arranged at certain intervals around the edges of thechart, arrow-lines pointing to the breastand waistlines respectively andbearing instructions to assist in making a pattern, and inscriptionsprinted adjacent the said waistand seatlines to instruct the user, allsubstantially as and for the purpose specified.

HAMLET PETER JACOBSON. Witnesses:

JULIUs B. DAVENPORT, ALBERT A. WATTS.

